Any floor-plan image: PNG, JPG, WebP or HEIC. Screenshots of listing PDFs, photos of printed plans and brochure scans all work — if you can see the walls, you can plan on it.

Do I have to trace or redraw the walls?

No. The image itself is the canvas. You only mark one known length to set the scale; there is no wall-drawing step at all.

My plan has no scale bar. Can I still use it?

Yes. Any length you know works as the reference: a labeled room dimension, a standard door (about 80 cm / 32 in), or a piece of furniture you own and can measure.

Can I do this on my phone?

Yes. You can photograph a printed plan with your phone camera, upload it directly, pinch to zoom and drag furniture with your finger.

Upload your own floor plan

Updated August 10, 2026

Quick answer Any floor-plan image works — PNG, JPG, WebP or HEIC, including a phone photo of a printed plan. You mark one known length to set the scale, and there is no wall-tracing step; from then on every piece is drawn at its true size on your own plan.

Most room planners make you rebuild your room wall by wall before you can try a single layout. ToScale skips that step: upload the floor plan you already have — a screenshot from a listing, a page from your lease brochure, or a photo of a printed plan — and it becomes your planning canvas.

After uploading, you set the scale once by marking one length you know, such as a wall or a doorway. From then on every piece of furniture you add is drawn at its real width and depth on your real plan, so clearances, walkways and door swings are the ones you will actually live with. It works with PNG, JPG, WebP and HEIC images, runs in your browser on desktop or phone, and needs no account.

How to set the scale in three steps

Upload your floor-plan image — a screenshot, a PDF page exported as an image, or a phone photo of a printed plan.
Find one length you already know: a labelled room dimension, a standard interior door (about 80 cm), or a wall you measured yourself.
Click the two ends of that length and type the real measurement. Every piece you add from then on is drawn at true size.

Pick the longest dimension you know for the scale step — a labeled wall length beats a door width. The longer the reference, the more accurate every placement becomes.

Upload your floor plan →

How to set the scale, by where your floor plan came from

Every floor plan lies a little, and it lies differently depending on who drew it. The scale step is only as good as the reference you pick, so before you mark a length, know what your source is actually reliable about. These are the plans people upload most and what to trust in each.

Where the plan came from	What it is reliable about	What to set the scale from	Where it goes wrong
Estate agent / lettings PDF	Room shapes, door and window positions, and the printed room dimensions, which are usually measured on site	A printed room dimension — pick the longest one on the plan, ideally a hallway or living room wall	The printed dimensions are measured at the widest point of the room, so an alcove or a chimney breast is not subtracted; a wall that reads 4.2 m may only be 3.6 m of usable run
Developer or new-build brochure	Overall proportions and the layout as designed	A stated room dimension, then sanity-check it against a doorway (about 80 cm / 32 in)	Brochure plans are drawn to sell, not to build: walls are shown thin or omitted, and dimensions are often quoted to the structural shell, so the finished room comes out a few centimetres smaller on every side
Architect's or building-control drawing	Almost everything — this is the most accurate source you can upload, with a scale bar and real wall thicknesses	The scale bar if there is one, otherwise any dimension line	It is drawn to the shell too, so the plasterboard, insulation and skirting that the finished room actually has are not on it; and a 1:50 drawing printed to A4 is no longer 1:50
Screenshot from a listing site	The layout and relative proportions, nothing more	A printed room dimension if the screenshot caught one; if not, a standard interior door (80 cm / 32 in) or the bath (170 cm / 67 in)	The site resized the image for the web, so any printed scale bar or ratio on it is meaningless — never trust a scale bar on a screenshot, only a measured length
Hand-drawn sketch of your own	The room count and roughly where things are	A length you measured yourself with a tape — measure two, and use the longer one	Sketches are not square and not proportional: corners drift off 90°, and short walls get drawn too long. Setting scale from a short wall multiplies that error across the whole plan
Export or screenshot from another planner app	Wall positions, because they were drawn to scale in that app	A wall you already know the length of, or an object in the export whose size you set yourself	The export may be cropped or padded, and if the original was drawn from the same unreliable brochure, the error is baked in and just looks precise now

Whatever the source, check your scale before you trust a layout: place a doorway or a piece of furniture you own next to it on the plan and see whether it looks right. If a known 80 cm door comes out visibly wrong, the reference length was wrong, and every placement after it is wrong by the same factor.

Frequently asked questions

What can I upload?: Any floor-plan image: PNG, JPG, WebP or HEIC. Screenshots of listing PDFs, photos of printed plans and brochure scans all work — if you can see the walls, you can plan on it.
Do I have to trace or redraw the walls?: No. The image itself is the canvas. You only mark one known length to set the scale; there is no wall-drawing step at all.
My plan has no scale bar. Can I still use it?: Yes. Any length you know works as the reference: a labeled room dimension, a standard door (about 80 cm / 32 in), or a piece of furniture you own and can measure.
Can I do this on my phone?: Yes. You can photograph a printed plan with your phone camera, upload it directly, pinch to zoom and drag furniture with your finger.

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